Heohwan Simulation Spring/Summer 2013

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Winner of the prestigious Vauxhall fashion scout merit award, Heohwan Simulation’s SS13 collection entitled ‘no logo’ was inspired by factory workers as a concept for minimalism.
Drawing inspiration from Marc Bohan’s 1960s silhouettes and fabrics Korean designer Heo Hwan, stuck to cool constructive and sleek, in a subtle pallet of white, beige, black and tasteful citrus brights.

The designer famed for his beginnings in menswear used his androgynous influence to leave a marked impression, blocking white and beige with grass green and yellow to eye popping effect. Shift dresses were spliced with triangular injections of colour, complimented by beige and green cropped jackets.

Tailoring was kept sharp and loose, with the standout pieces being the yellow tuxedo coat and print and perforated leather dresses. Avoiding all Spring clichés, Heo cleverly proved the milder season does not mean pastels, florals or flesh on show, but truly appreciates the tricky transition that should be done demurely with edge and style…

Modern masculine cuts and leather juxtaposed by simultaneously feminine sheer fabrics makes it easy to see why this delicate balance has won Mr Hwan industry, blogger and designers admiration.

Designer & Brand Info: Heohwan Simulation

PR Team: WhiteHair co.

Article by Tania Willis

Photography by Alan Christopher Parker
© ACP / Stylogasm 2012-2013

DB Berdan Spring/Summer 2013

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DB Berdan’s Haute Boheme collection found its inspiration in the Golden Era of the 20th century. With the designer couple consisting of the fashion editor turned designer, Deniz Berdan and her CSM trained daughter, Begum Berdan, the launch of the brand’s Spring/Summer 2013 collection was nothing short of a success. Targeting a young, vibrant and fashion-forward consumer, the designers have presented beautifully hand-crafted dresses, defined by texture and clashing prints.

The collection is defined by repeat pattern and collage prints, stripes and surrealist accents. The vibrancy and freshness of the collection can be found in the textured dresses with see-through voile fragments and fluorescent, neon colours.

Details such as over-sized accessories and double leather belts to accentuate the waistline contribute to a playful vision of the femininity that is being interpreted by the designers. Soft pastel colours like baby-blue and yellow are contrasted by neon colours and black details. As the title given, the collection is an analogy between high fashion, craftsmanship and a relaxed, bohemian feel.

Designer & Brand Info: DB Berdan

PR Team: Katch PR

Article by Bianca Jutaru

Photography by Alan Christopher Parker
© ACP / Stylogasm 2012-2013

Bernard Chandran Spring/Summer 2013

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It’s clear that Malaysian fashion designer Bernard Chandran didn’t miss the memo stating monochrome would be big news for SS13, presenting a 44-look collection at London Fashion Week with a predominant colour palette of black and white. Accents of dove grey, oyster pink, neutrals and a flashes of electric blue added colour to Chandran’s concise collection, which also featured geometric triangular prints and abstract patterns.

Fabrics ranged from stiff cotton, tough leathers, delicate silks and slinky satins with sequin and jewel embellishments adding a touch of glamour and sparkle. Shapes were clean and modern, with hemlines sitting high above the knee for a fresh and sexy feel.

My favourite looks came at the top of the show in the form of futuristic crisp white mini dresses with short sleeves, cutaway details and a-line skirts. Accessorized with natty oversized shades and statement platform heels in patent black and white leathers, the look presented was cool, urban and youthful. I could imagine these outfits sitting comfortably in the wardrobe of young pop starlet with a fun and edgy sense of style.

This was a crowd-pleasing, commercial collection from Chandran with a futuristic appeal that feels perfect for SS13.

Designer & Brand Info: Bernard Chandran

PR Team: POP PR

Article by Sophie Green

Photography by Alan Christopher Parker
© ACP / Stylogasm 2012

Nova Chiu Spring/Summer 2013

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Novia Chiu’s Spring/Summer 2013 collection, entitled “Bon Voyage”, was inspired by the creative duos travelling and road trips. The two designers wanted to create a more wearable and versatile collection so silks and satins were combined to create beautiful but wearable shirts, blouses and trouser suits. The fluid feminine shapes of the garments were both flattering and functional not only in silhouette but also in texture and colour.

Whilst on their journey’s, designers Nova and Jeff, who are known for their surface prints, took pictures of Asia’s mountains, trees and rivers and printed them on silk, satin, cotton and spandex in a selection of captivating colours; including warm pinks, icy blues, earthy greens, sunset oranges and vivid purples.

The timeless collection was very in-keeping with traditional Asian fashion. Loose silk kaftan-style jackets were worn with printed spandex leggings which showcased a stretch of Asia’s sultry summer scenery. Decadently draped blouses and dresses featured seductively deep v-shaped backs which gave the oriental collection a modern western edge.

Some of the pieces featured subtle fringing, which gave the garments movement, bringing the scenery printed upon them to life, whilst others featured an overlay of netted ruching in bright calypso corals and peachy hues which added dimension to the silken landscape beneath.

Designer & Brand Info: Nova Chiu

PR Team: POP PR

Article by Grace Beazer

Photography by Alan Christopher Parker
© ACP / Stylogasm 2012

Aminaka Wilmont Spring/Summer 2013

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Aminaka Wilmont SS13 was inspired by the technical construction of perfumes, seemingly floral and sweet, with darker undertones climbing to the surface through screen printed haze of abstract prints.

Maki Aminaka Löfvander and Marcus Wilmont are the key ingredients of design duo Aminaka Wilmont, Maki’s Swedish and Japanese heritage can be traced to the ‘girl with the dragon tattoo’ aesthetic. Models ears were styled in slick but unusual piercings, cropped jet black fringes complimented with a mix of floral and gothic tattoos to juxtapose the femininity of their trademark ‘experimental’ drape dresses.

Floral notes opened the show printed in predictably muted primary tones on pale blue across dresses of various cuts, which made for a subtly striking look in wearable lengths from mid thigh to floor length.

The most impacting combination was a white asymmetric sleeveless shirt paired with leggings which faded from navy in the inner thigh, passing through a white light to pale blue, toughened up by black gladiator platforms.

Other high notes were the black asymmetric jacket with leather sleeves. The beauty of the collection really came out after dark, with black stripes vertical on sleeves clashing with horizontal on the body, paired with screen printed monochrome striped skirts and shorts.

It’s not difficult to see that the sophistication of twisted necklines and enigmatic, yet brilliant screen printing won them the Fashion Fringe award back in 2007, yet like any new perfume, you need to give it time to mature past the overwhelming essence of florals, to really inhale the muskier, mysterious scent.

Designer & Brand Info: Aminaka Wilmont

PR Team: Finch & Partners

Article by Tania Willis

Photography by Alan Christopher Parker
© ACP / Stylogasm 2012

Jena Theo Spring/Summer 2013

Jenny Homes and Dimitris Theocharidis of Jena Theo created a thoroughly modern ‘Hells Angel’ for their ss13 collection.

Ice maiden meets Gothic dessert chic bought a rich femininity with a 90’s biker edge. Palettes of silky peach made up a stunning maxi skirt, paired with a yellow and black ombre conical bustier with carefully considered paneling cut a for a femme fresh darkness.

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Expert detailing in white etchings of snakes, dragons and skulls over sheer or solid black fabric, styled over arms, skirts and down sides solidified an oriental cool.
Shoes were modelled on a more earthly aesthetic; wooden platforms supporting toes encased in almost white woven leather, mimicking the body of a fish skeleton with cut out heels.

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The fluidity of elegant sequined skirts, shimmering statement dresses and forward thinking cuts are slightly disturbed by the coarse stiffness of the goth denim T-Shirt, and cowhide skin crop top which hangs, well, exactly how dead animals skin would.
Awkward tailoring aside the collection was a stunning original mix of textures and colours addressing the ‘True Jenna Theo Woman’ which it did in a unique, smouldering urban way.

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Designer & Brand Info: Jena Theo

PR Team: Goodley PR

Article by Tania Willis

Photography by Alan Christopher Parker
© ACP / Stylogasm 2012